The four of us jumped unknowingly into a little shuttle and headed for Puerto Escondido. We all stocked up on a bunch of snacks for the bus ride. We knew the shuttle was going to take a long time (seven hours) and it was a very short distance (only 84kms), we just assumed it was a really slow road. This is where we should have sprung for a flight. Don’t ever do this journey.
Within an hour everyone on the bus was green with travel sickness. No matter what you did, there was no way to feel better on this bus. Not only was it hair pin after hair pin, our driver was absolutely crazy. Slamming on the brakes and accelerator, stopping whenever he needed a poo and leaving us to roast in the back and finally stopping in the middle of the road to drop a personal package off to someone.
He was an absolutely terrible driver, to the point that he was pulled over by the police and told off.
Seven hours felt like days, neither of us could open our eyes or speak without a the risk of power vomming everywhere. It was so hot as he couldn’t run the AC and go uphill at the same time apparently. It really was the worst bus ride ever! Well, our worst yet at least.
Finally we arrived at our cabanas and, after our stomaches settled, we all headed to the waterfront to find some food. It was a beautiful afternoon along the water, although it looked rather choppy. As it turned out, you couldn’t swim in the beach here due to horrendous currents. Puerto Escondido, in particular Zicarela (the beach we were staying at) has one of the worlds heaviest and scariest breaks.
The Mexican Wave @ Puerto Escondida
The street (yes singular) was lined with wooden restaurants, all extended out to the waterfront with tables literally in the sand. It was amazing and not too over touristy. We ate at a little place that lured us in with its sandwhich board offers, hamburgers, of course.
The next morning we were picked up by a taxi, and taken to a little port beach where we had organised a boat trip try to spot some whales, dolphin and turtles. We were lucky enough to see heaps of turtles and hundreds of dolphins but unfortunately no whales.
Find Your Porpoise @ Puerto Escondida
A Turtle Head Poking Out… @ Puerto Escondida
We spent the rest of the day drinking beers and cocktails, lounging on the beach. Although the sand was too hot to walk on and the current too heavy to swim in, all in all, it wasn’t a horrible day.
We spent the next day lazing around on a beach called Playa Carrizalillo which is on the other side of the town, after a brief and very sweaty stroll through the markets. We reached the beach which is located in a little cove, at the bottom of 157 steps.
We managed to steal four lounge chairs on a very small and crowded beach. The break was coming in sets that would somehow surprise the unsuspecting crowd laying on towels, at one point, for the fifth time, a bunch of girls got smashed by a massive wave that drowned all their devices, clothing, towels and bags. One went straight off to to buy a bag of rice to dry out and save her phone while the others pulled things out of their bags and left sheets of paper hanging out to dry.
As the Oaxacan coast is also a major global sea-turtle nesting area, later that day we headed to a little beach where we were given a baby turtle each to release into the ocean as part of a conservation project. We were all so in love with the cuteness of the little turtles that we considered for a moment taking them with us travelling, but instead after coming to the conclusion that that would most certainly kill them instantly, we let them go;
⁃ Alice and mine criss-crossed paths all the way to the shore and at the same time, went into the ocean.
⁃ Adams went for a walk along the beach before deciding it was time to join its siblings.
⁃ Rach’s took a couple steps, and waited for a while. Then it waited a wee while later, then a bit more, a couple steps more, then eventually strolled down to the shore and jumped in.
Our Babies @ Puerto Escondida
Feeling Crabby @ Puerto Escondido
The next day we headed a couple hours down the road to San Augustinillo 1km further East to Mazunte. We decided to try finding a Lonely Planet recommended Hotel/Hostal “Posada de Evelia” which was cheap and apparently fine. It turned out it no longer existed. Luckily, just down the road we stumbled across “Punto Elephante” which was not only in our price range, it was literally on the beach.
The hotel had a wonderfully big terrace area, with an open kitchen that we were free to use and at our doorstep was a beautiful, semi private little beach cove with water as clear as glass.
We quickly dropped our bags in our rooms, changed into our swimmers and ran into the water. I, stupidly, tried to teach the poms how to body surf in about 2 inches of water, needless to say i swapped half of the flesh in my hip for half the sand on the beach. We headed down the street for some veggies and groceries, cooked (a pretty average pasta) dinner and spent the rest of the night relaxing.
Alice became very sick that night (for no apparent reason but threw up all night) so we stayed in in the morning while Rach and Ad went out on another boat trip and saw hump back whales!!! Bloody Alice. When you get sick while you are travelling there are so many things it could be; the food, the spices, the water, altitude, just moving around a lot. It literally could have been anything and we still don’t know why. The next day was a write off for Al and I whilst Alice recovered and rested, Ad and Rach went to buy our bus tickets for the next day.
We sat on the beach and terrace for the remainder of our time, briefly strolling through the town to check out the Mazunte Turtle Sancuary/museum. This place was pretty cool, we saw about 30 species of turtles including some incredible sea turtles. It definitely needed all of its tanks cleaning and a lot more information but we did see a lot of species or turtles we never knew existed so that was pretty cool.
The next day we sat on the beach, swam and relaxed before we all jumped on an over night, 13 hour bus to San Cristobal De Las Casas.
Beach bumming our way through the best part of a week was a nice relaxing time especially when one of us was quite sick. Although I’ve left behind half of my hip skin, we loved the warm waters and pretty cool turtles we came across on the Oaxacan Coast of Mexico. Definitely recommend.
Turtley Awesome @ Mazunte